Diy large photo print driver#
Diy large photo print full#

Don't use Gudy 831 after it's been pulled off something (anything) - it won't stick to the Gatorfoam well enough to overcome the curl of the heavyweight Canson Baryta. The Gudy 831 can be pulled off the Gatorfoam - it cannot be pulled off the back of the print.Ģ. These prints are made on a heavy paper roll and have a lot of curl.ġ. Some comments after practicing this technique on Canson Baryta 310gsm print sizes around 32 x 40', mounting to 1/2' white Gatorfoam. Lastly, I glue one of my business cards to the back of the print so the client will always remember who made the piece and where they can reorder. You can either attach a framing wire or other wall mount to hang the frame and I like to add little rubber bumpers to the bottom corners so it doesn't scratch the wall it's hung on. I usually place one point every 6'-10' around the frame.

Diy large photo print driver#

You may see minor air bubbles at this point, but with a few passes of the brayer, they'll slowly begin to disappear and you're left with a perfect lab quality mount.Īfter our print is mounted, we can fasten it in a frame using a point driver and framer's points. While using the brayer to apply pressure (activating the pressure sensitive adhesive) we slowly continue to peel back the release paper until the entire print is in contact with the adhesive. Next we roll back the print to reveal the torn edge of the release paper and start to peel it back about 6' at a time. With an exposed edge, I line up my print with the edge of the substrate/adhesive and begin to apply pressure. It also helps position the print just right, since we only get one shot at this! I usually avoid removing the entire piece of release paper at this point to prevent dust from sticking to our adhesive. Once we've got our adhesive on the substrate, we can use a straight edge and tear off about a 1'-2' strip of release paper, exposing the tacky surface of the adhesive. I like the wider brayers over the smaller versions, especially when mounting larger prints. Don't worry if you see small air pockets or ripples at this point, as long as there aren't any creases, it'll work out fine when we remove the release paper and attach our print. We can use a rubber brayer to apply pressure to the adhesive material, establishing a bond between the substrate and the adhesive. Once we get our substrate positioned, we can trim the excess and separate it from the roll. If you screw this part up, the whole print will be crooked and you'll have to start over.

After rolling out the material to expose the tacky surface we carefully place the substrate, making sure to align the factory edges. It's quite a bit more expensive than other brands, but it's hands-down the best stuff I've found. Over the years I've tried most of them, and these days Neschen Gudy 831 is the only stuff I'll use. The cheaper ones tend to leave air pockets or lift over time, while the better quality stuff gives even, uniform, long lasting adhesion. As I mention in the video, not all are created equal. Now we roll out our pressure sensitive adhesive. Before applying our pressure sensitive adhesive, I always clean the surface with a rag or brush, followed by high pressure air (either an air compressor or canned air).

Diy large photo print full#

I precut our piece based on the size of our print (we buy it in full 4'x8' sheets) and file the edges with a straight file to eliminate any burrs or rough areas. One of the other issues with foamcore is that it dimples if it's handled wrong, and those dimples will show through in your print. Double that (600 dpi) and you double the size of the image when printed.Next we pick our substrate I typically use Gatorboard instead of foamcore for anything larger than 11'x14' as it tends to stay flat and won't warp over time. However, if you are scanning or printing something you will need 300 pixels for every inch of print you want. The question of resolution is seldom ever important when viewing or publishing digital images (screens and websites ignore the resolution and just look at pixel dimensions). So ignore file size and concentrate on pixels.Īnd the photo's resolution - ppi or dpi? You can mostly ignore that too. There is a relationship between the number of pixels and the file size, but it's complicated by things like levels of JPG or PNG format compression - which vary from picture to picture. What about the file size in kilobytes (KB) or megabytes (MB)? Important right? Not really.

The full portrait on the left? It is 473 x 600 pixels (reduced to fit into the space on this webpage). You can count them (in this special blow up).

Its size is 28 pixels across by 28 pixels down. Look at the image of the soldier on the left - just the portion on the far right.

And every digital image has an actual dimension or grid size, e.g. Every digital image is made up of little, single-color squares called 'pixels'.